Monday, August 3, 2015

Kudos and Other Things Grecian


On our trip to Athens and Crete, we had many experiences that for some reason or other just didn't fit into one of our previous stories, so we've added them here. Further, in the Kudos section, we have acknowledged exceptional people that made a positive difference to our trip experience. To those folks, thank you from the bottom of our hearts.

Other Experiences

Air Canada Rouge

We flew across the Atlantic on Air Canada's Rouge. Rouge is Air Canada's effort at "stylishly affordable service to holiday spots in Europe and the Caribbean". There was no entertainment screen on the back of the seat in front.  They provided connectivity to the entertainment system only. We had to provide our own device or rent an I Pad. In our case, we used our laptops. For a long haul flight of 9 plus hours, we didn't have enough battery power, so needed to share a single AC outlet mounted at floor level. One computer needed to be on battery while the other charged. Our concern was having all this electronic gear with power supplies and cords in the confined seat space along with blankets, pillows, food trays and the like. At the same time, food and drinks were being passed back and forth over the equipment. At best it wasn't stylish service. At worse, it seemed like a potential safety hazard if we needed to evacuate. Fortunately, we did not.

Smoking

There's still lots of smokers in Athens. It reminds us of Canada 30 years ago. If they look at Canada today, they may like what they see.

Streets of Old Athens

Old Athens reminded us of Venice; it's a maize. There's only a vague resemblance between the map and reality. The streets are extremely narrow, many are pedestrian only, and the ones with vehicle traffic have the narrowest of sidewalks, and people flow out into traffic. Pedestrians own the streets of old Athens.

Gas Prices

In Athens and on the Island of Crete, gas cost about C$2.20 / liter. Vehicles are small and distances relatively short.

Weather

The sun was always very hot between 10 AM and 4 PM. The saviours were shade and a breeze. Normally it was in the mid 30s plus or minus. When there was a wind, it was very pleasant and there were sheep (white caps), as the locals called them, on the sea.

Wine

On the Island, we drank a wine recommended at the grocery store in Spili. It was Cretan, Konaki traditional wine from the Agricultural Union of Heraklion. We found it interesting they recommended it rather than their high end wines. It cost about 11 Euros for 5 L. We also noted, it was  always available where the local people shopped.

Cheese

The local cheeses were excellent, and made mainly from Goat and Sheep milk.

Olive Oil

Olive trees were everywhere, and apparently some can be hundreds of years old. Even though, the olives were not ready for picking yet, there was local oil, without a label, available in the stores. Up on the main road through Kerames, there's a large scale Olive Oil production plant, which unfortunately has been closed for a couple of years.

Other Local Produce

There were fruit and nuts growing wherever we looked. They included Pomegranates, Figs, Mulberries, Pears, Walnuts and more.

Trucks came into town regularly selling local produce.

Tourism in Kerames

Fortunately, there were no tourist helicopters, however there was the odd guided convoy of jeeps, and a few rental cars. Most rental cars stopped just long enough for the folks to buy a cold drink from the Mini Market. Now and then, a rental car was parked overnight outside the Rooms for Rent. We noticed a few upscale dwellings in town that appear to be seasonal homes of folks from northern European countries. In the center of the village, there was retail space available for some tourist type stores. To get that seed to grow, they would need some good marketing. The closed Olive Oil plant, which is right on the main road, could be reworked into a traffic stopper, like an open market. The downside of that kind of development is that the town would never be the same.

At the moment, in Kerames, there was no tourist veneer. Nothing was artificial. Everything that we saw, felt, tasted, smelled, and heard was authentically Cretan, and we think that that is what makes it very special.

Kudos

Restaurant Loakh and Johnny

We were looking to dine out one evening in Athens. As we were strolling the streets, Johnny approaches us and asked if we'd like to "eat dinner with them this evening". We indicated we were not quite ready but we might be back. Over the next half hour, his invitation appeared better and better. So we returned and were not disappointed. In as much as there was a menu, they offered to mix and match and make us anything we wanted. The ambience was wonderful, sitting in a street side restaurant in historic Plaka, the old part of the city. There was no vehicle traffic, only people strolling the streets, an accordionist within hear shot, and a waiter second to none in making our dining experience exceptional. The restaurant was Loakh, their website, oldithaki.com; their manager and waiter extraordinaire, Johnny.

Pame Volta and Kostas

For the most part, downtown Athens is a mecca for cars and motorcycles. Initially we were sceptical of the cycling concept, expecting that we would just be part of the dangerous mix. Fortunately however, Kostas had a route of bicycle friendly pathways.

Kostas was our tour guide from Pame Volta tour company. At various stops, he not only provided historical information, but did so  in an engaging and impressive style of asking us questions and leading us to the answers. In all, we had an enjoyable, informative and safe cycling tour. Well done Kostas, a kudos for you. For more information about Pame Volta, you can go to pamevolta.gr.

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Police, and the People of Athens

Greece is going through tough times financially. As a result, they have been pressured by the EU to accept significant restraint measures. This has led to protests. During our stay in Athens there was another vote in Parliament, and so another demonstration that had potential to turn into a riot. Hotel Security were on high alert and warned us that things could escalate very quickly.  About 9:30 PM there was a scurry of people at the intersection a 100 meters away where a Molotov cocktail had been thrown into the intersection. It burned but failed to flare up. It appeared the demonstration was turning into a riot, so we took refuge in the hotel. As it turned out, there had only been 2 Molotoves thrown, Police brought it under control, and that was the extent of the movement from demonstration to riot. It was nipped in the bud by Police. Kudos go out to the people of Athens, the police, and of course our hotel security. For more on Democracy boiling over http://travellingwithsteveandmarlene.blogspot.gr/2015/07/democracy-comes-to-boil.html.

People of Kerames, Crete

Even though we were strangers intruding into their beautiful and private community, they were polite, helpful, accommodating and accepted us. We thank them for their hospitality. Below are the ones most notable.

Kerame Mini Mart and Family

The local Mini Mart was our closest grocery store. Because they're in the small village, they couldn't have everything we wanted, but they did have everything we needed. The Mini Mart was a family run business, that even though the store hours were not posted, was open every time we went. In addition, both the mother and her daughter, Fotini spoke English well enough to supplement our couple of words of Greek and get our order filled.

Our Neighbours

Maria,  Alexandra and their families treated us as long time neighbours. They struggled as we struggled to communicate. They always greeted us with a smile. They gave us vegetables from their garden, eggs from their hens, and even some hearty stew. Two boys, Phillip 12 years old and Stavros 7 allowed me to play some soccer with them, throw their ball around, and share in triumphs with high fives. This was the Cretan village experience that we could only dream of, but never expected to get.

Alf, Jivan and Ursula

Alf and Jivan live in Sweden, but own the villa, Zorba Zen House. This is their home away from Sweden, and we thank them for opening it to us. Ursula was their greeter, trouble shooter, and I suggest Manager when they're not in Kerames. Together, they provided great accommodation as can be seen in some of our stories. Ursula was business-like and friendly. She helped us get settled in, and made sure our needs were met. If we ever have a rental property, we'd want Ursula to manage it.


From the villa terrace, under the Grecian sky; watch and listen.